Skincare ingredients you should (not) avoid are the topic of today’s post on my blog! Keep reading to find out more about some controversial skincare ingredients in the beauty world!
Hello, my lovely readers and welcome to the new post on my blog! This post is going to be about some discussional skincare ingredients you should (not) avoid. This post is inspired by the needs of people who are like me, who don’t know chemistry that well, but would like to understand some of the basics of the ingredients from the skincare and cosmetic products they use every day. Without further ado, let’s get into this!
Zdravo, dragi moji čitaoci i dobro došli u novi post na mom blogu! Ovaj post će biti o nekim diskutabilnim proizvodima za njegu kože koje (ne) trebate izbjegavati. Ovaj post je inspirisan potrebana ljudi poput mene, koji baš i ne znaju hemiju tako dobro, ali bi voljeli znati neke osnove o sastojcima proizvoda koje koriste svakodnevno. Pa, mislim da je vrijeme da započnemo s ovim postom!
Let’s start off with parabens! I think you all have heard about them many times but you actually didn’t know what they are and what is their function in cosmetic products. Parabens are effective, cheap, and gentle preservatives. Most of the cosmetics brands use parabens as preservatives because they are very economically advantageous preservatives. Certain researches have shown that they affect hormones. But, those researches were done on animals and they gave them a huge amount of parabens so it’s not a surprise they have affected their hormones. Anyway, in cosmetics products, parabens are used in a very small, tiny amount, which is why I think they cannot mess up with our hormones. Some people say parabens were connected with cancer (especially breast cancer) but there’s no valid proof of that.
Da započnemo s parabenima! Mislim da ste svi dosad mnogo puta čuli o njima ali ne znate šta su parabeni zapravo i šta je njihova funkcija u kozmetičkim proizvodima. Parabeni su efektivni, jeftini i nježni konzervansi. Većina kozmetičkih brendova koristi parabene jer su ekonomski povoljni konzervansi. Određena istraživanja su pokazala da parabeni utiču na hormone. Ali, ta istraživanja su vršena na životinjama kojima je data većina količina parabena pa nije iznenađujuće da su tako uticali na njihove hormone. Kakogod, u kozmetičkim proizvodima, parabeni se koriste u veoma malim količinama, zbog čega mislim da ne mogu uticati na naše hormone. Neki ljudi kažu da su parabeni ranije povezivani s rakom (posebno rakom dojke) ali nema validnih dokaza za to.
Silicons make the skin matte, nice and smooth. They give the users a feeling as the product is smoother which makes the users want to use the products that contain parabens more often. However, they fill out the pores and create a half-occlusive net layer on the skin because their molecules are heavy. Too many skincare products with parabens in your routine will lead to your pores being that filled out that the skin cannot breathe at all which will eventually result in acne. They don’t dissolve in water so they are very hard to wash off your face. One good side of silicons is that they can help with scars because they fill out the pores in the damaged part and it may lead to the total disappearance of the scars. Being an ingredient that creates the layer on the skin, it holds the water inside the skin which makes it hydrating.
Silikoni čine kožu matiranom, lijepom i glatkom. Daju potrošačima osjećaj da je proizvod glađi što “tjera” potrošače da koriste proizvode s parabenima češće. Međutim, oni popunjavaju pore i kreiraju polu-okluzivan mrežni sloj na koži jer imaju jako teške molekule. Previše proizvoda sa parabenima u rutini će dovesti do toga da su pore toliko popunjene da koža ne može da diše što eventualno rezultira sa aknama. Ne otapaju se u vodi pa se jako teško ispiru s lica. Jedna dobra strana silikona jeste da mogu pomoći s ožiljcima jer ispunjavaju pore oštećenog područja i to može dovesti do potpunog nestanka ožiljaka. Budući da je to sastojak koji kreira sloj na koži, on zadržava vodu u koži što ga čini hidratantnim.
Mineral oils are effective and cheap hydrating ingredients. Similar to silicons, they can fill out the pores. But, the difference is that mineral oils create a fully occlusive layer on the skin. The origin of mineral oils is petroleum but they are highly refined so they don’t have the characteristics of petroleum. Due to their characteristic of creating a full layer on the skin, they hold the water inside the skin which is good for people with dry skin, like me. However, filling out the pores, also, can result in acne, if used way too much.
Mineralna ulja su efektivni i jeftini hidratantni sastojci. Slično kao silikoni, oni mogu popuniti pore. Ali razlika je u tome što mineralna ulja kreiraju potpuno okluzivan sloj na koži. Porijeklo vode od nafte ali su visoko rafinirani sastojci pa nemaju osobine nafte. Zbog njihove karakteristike da kreiraju potpuni sloj na koži, oni također zadržavaju vodu unutar kože što je super za ljude sa suhom kožom, poput mene. Međutim, popunjavanje pora, također, može odvesti u pravcu koji rezultira sa aknama, ako se koriste često.
Alcohols. Ask me a few days ago and I’d say that all alcohols are bad, but now I know that there are two kinds of alcohol: good (fatty) alcohols and bad alcohols. Let’s start with the good ones. They are often used as emulsifiers in products. That means that they are there to make the users addicted to a certain product by its smell or taste. The good alcohols are also very fatty (from where the nickname comes) which makes them great for nourishing the skin. On the other hand, bad alcohols are often in products such as micellar waters and tonics which, as you can notice, always absorb into the skin very fast. That’s exactly because of the alcohol in them. Most people love that about tonics or micellar waters, not knowing that it means they contain bad alcohol. You should really avoid alcohols which, on the list of the ingredients, are listed as SD alcohols. That means they are super denatured. “SD-Alcohol and some numer+letter refers to alcohol (or ethanol) being denaturated with different kind of additives. These additives make sure that the alcohol is poisonous and bad tasting so that nobody drinks their alcohol-loaded toner. 40-B specifically means the additives are denatonium benzoate and t-butyl alcohol.”
Alkoholi. Da ste me pitali prije par dana, rekla bih da su svi alkoholi loši, ali sada znam da postoje dvije vrste alkohola: dobri (masni) alkoholi i loši alkoholi. Započet ćemo s dobrima. Obično se koriste kao emulgatori u proizvodima. To znači da su tu da učine korisnike ovisnim o mirisu ili okusu nekih proizvoda. Dobri alkoholi su veoma masni (odakle im dolazi i naziv) što znači da su dobri za hranjenje kože. S druge strane, loši alkoholi se koriste u proizvodima poput micelarnih voda i tonika koji se, kao što možete primijetiti, uvijek brzo upijaju u kožu. To je upravo zbog alkohola u njima. Većini ljudi se sviđa upravo to što se tonici i micelarne vode brzo upijaju jer ne znaju da to znači da sadrže loše alkohole. Zaista biste trebali izbjegavati alkohole koji, na listi sa sastojcima, imaju znak SD ispred. To znači da su super denatured – veoma denaturirani. “SD-Alkohol i nekolika broja+slova se odnosi na alkohol (ili etanol) koji je denaturiran s različitim aditivima. Ti aditivi su tu da se uvjere da je alkohol otrovan i da ima loš okus tako da niko ne popije njihov tonik napunjen alkoholom. 40-B znači da su aditivi denatonium benzoate i t-butyl alkohol”.
Artificial fragrances are toxic for the skin so the cosmetic brands use essential oils instead. Same story as it was with alcohol – there are good and bad essential oils. Good ones are antioxidants and antibacterial ingredients. The bad ones, however, can contain allergens so there’s a huge possibility of them damaging the skin, especially sensitive and dry skin. You should especially avoid bergamot, lemon, and lime. The thing with essential oils that make them possibly bad for your skin is their concentration. You could be able to use them all if you just knew if they are low or high concentrated. If essential oils are low concentrated, there should be no harm in them because – the lower the concentration the lower the risk of irritation, but that’s not written on the ingredients list…
Sintetički mirisi su toksični za kožu pa kozmetički brendovi koriste esencijalna ulja umjesto njih. Ista priča kao kod alkohola – postoje dobra i loša esencijalna ulja. Dobra su antioksidanski i antibakterijski sastojci. Loši, međutim, mogu sadržavati alergene pa postoji velika mogućnost da će oštetiti kožu, posebno osjetljivu i suhu kožu. Posebno trebate izbjegavati bergamot, limun i limetu. Stvar koja čini esencijalna ulja potencijalno lošima za kožu jeste njihova koncentracija. Bili biste u mogućnosti koristiti sva esencijalna ulja ako biste znali da li su nisko ili visoko koncentrovana. Ako su nisko koncentrovana, ne bi trebali štetiti koži jer – što je manja koncentracija to je manja mogućnost iritacije, ali to ne bude napisano na listi sastojaka…
Now, let’s say something about artificial fragrances, besides the fact they are toxic for the skin. Most of the ingredients list has written “parfum/fragrance”. There’s no possible way for us to know what is hidden by that one word. And that is what is messed up here. They can cause allergic reactions, even a headache if the smell is really strong. We all love when our products smell good, but trust me – that’s not good for any of us. Some dermatologists say they can cause cancer, asthma, kidney damage, a congenital defect of the child, and problems with the nervous system. Your products can still smell good but it’s better for you to only use the products with parfum that you wash off such as washing gels or lotions because they don’t have a huge effect on your skin other than removing the dirty stuff from it.
Sada ćemo malo pričati o sintetičkim mirisima, pored činjenice da su toksični za kožu ima se tu još nešto za reći. Na većini lista sa sastojcima piše “parfum/fragrance”. Ne postoji način za nas, potrošače, da vidimo šta se zapravo krije iza te jedne riječi. I to je ono što je pogrešno ovdje. Mogu izazvati alergijske reakcije, čak i glavobolje ako je miris jak. Svi volimo kada nam proizvodi mirišu dobro, ali vjerujte mi – to nije dobro ni za koga od nas. Neki dermatolozi kažu da mogu izazvati rak, astmu, oštećenje bubrega, urođene mane djeteta i probleme sa nervnim sistemom. Proizvodi vam mogu mirisati dobro ali je bolje za vas da samo koristite proizvode sa sintetičkim mirisima koje ispirete poput gelova za pranje lica ili losiona jer oni nemaju ogroman efekat na kožu pored skidanja nečistoća s nje.
Sulfates, hmm… They might be one of the most discussable ingredients of this list. Wet wipes, for example, have sulfates in them. As well as micellar waters and guess which products… The detergents you use to wash the dishes! They create bubbles in detergents and soaps. However, as pretty as it might sound because of the bubbles, they also irritate the skin heavily. You can conclude this by yourself if you usually wash your dishes because detergents irritate the skin very badly. I think my hands are the driest and the most irritated when I wash the dishes… So, I recommend staying away from them but if you really must use them, be sure they aren’t in the leave-in products you use. This especially goes for people with dry skin like me.
Sulfati, hmm… To su možda jedni od najdiskutabilnijih sastojaka ove liste. Vlažne maramice, na primjer, sadrže sulfate. Kao i micelarne vode i pogodite koji proizvodi… Deterdženti koje koristite da perete posuđe! Oni kreiraju pjenu i mjehuriće u deterdžentima i sapunima. Međutim, koliko god lijepo zvučalo zbog mjehurića, oni mnogo iritiraju kožu. Ovo možete sami zaključiti ako često perete posuđe jer deterdženti baš iziritiraju kožu. Mislim da su mi ruke najsuše i najiziritiranije kada perem posuđe… Pa, preporučujem da izbjegavate sulfate ali ako ih već morate koristiti, pazite da nisu u leave-in proizvodima tj.proizvodima koji ostaju na koži (kao npr.kreme). Ovo posebno vrijedi za ljude sa suhom kožom poput mene.
Coconut oil is the last product I want to talk about. Coconut oil is commonly used in the beauty community. It hydrates and nourishes the skin but it creates the layer on the skin and it is comedogenic. Comedogenic means that it completely clogs the pores. The good side of coconut oil is that it keeps the water inside the skin, keeps it hydrated. Clogging the pores should be enough reason for you to avoid it although it hydrates the skin.
That would be everything for this post! Thank you so much for reading this post and coming to the very end! Love you all so much and talk to you really soon!
Kokosovo ulje je zadnji proizvod o kome danas želim pričati. Kokosovo ulje se često koristi, koliko vidim, u beauty zajednici. Ono hidrira i hrani kožu ali kreira sloj na koži i komedogeno je. Komedogeno znači da potpuno začepljuje pore. Dobra strana kokosova ulja je da zadržava vodu unutar kože, zadržava je hidriranom. Začepljivanje pora bi trebao biti dovoljan razlog da ga izbjegavate iako hidrira kožu.
To bi bilo sve za ovaj post! Hvala vam puno na čitanju ovog posta i ostajanju do samog kraja! Volim vas sve puno i čujemo se uskoro!
xoxo
Bye, V
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